Nothing at all happens
No dash lights, no click, no crank. That is almost always a flat or dead battery, or a corroded terminal. Check the terminals are tight and clean — a bit of white powder on the posts can be enough to stop the car cold.
If the lights are bright and there is still nothing when you turn the key, suspect the starter motor, the ignition switch or a neutral safety switch on an automatic.
One loud click, or rapid clicking
Rapid machine-gun clicking is a battery with just enough charge to pull the solenoid in but not enough to spin the starter. A jump start will usually get you going, but the battery is on borrowed time.
A single heavy clunk with good lights points at the starter motor itself.
It cranks but never fires
The battery is fine — the engine is missing fuel, spark or the signal that tells it to make them. Common causes are a failed crank angle sensor, a dead fuel pump, a blocked filter, a snapped timing belt, or an immobiliser that does not recognise the key.
If it cranks fast and fires briefly then dies, that pattern points strongly at fuel delivery or immobiliser.
Starts, then dies immediately
- Immobiliser or key transponder fault
- Fuel pump losing pressure
- Idle air control or throttle body fault
- Major vacuum leak
Before you call anyone
- Confirm the car is in park or neutral, and try neutral on an auto
- Check the dash immobiliser light — a flashing key symbol means the car will crank but never run
- Try the spare key
- Look for a fuel gauge that has failed and reads wrong
- Note exactly what you hear — it tells the mechanic more than anything else
We come to the car
A car that will not start does not need to be towed anywhere first. We bring the battery tester, scan tool and common parts to your address, diagnose it on the spot and in most cases have you running the same visit. Call 0434 728 765 and describe the noise it makes.
Broken down right now? We come to you on the roadside, 7 days.